Japan: Hakone, Kyoto, Osaka & Tokyo
9 days · Vegetarian-friendly · A practical guide for first-time visitors
This itinerary is based on our actual journey. It focuses on Hakone, teamLab Biovortex Kyoto and SHIBUYA SKY, with enough rest between long walking days.
Day-by-day itinerary
17 September - Hakone
Buy a Welcome Suica at Haneda Airport before leaving the airport and add at least ¥5,000 to your card for a smooth first 1-2 days of travel. We travelled from Tokyo by train and then took a local bus to Gōra Station. Yumoto and Gōra are two towns in Hakone. Yumoto is the main entrance to Hakone, with more shops, restaurants and busy hot-spring streets. Gōra is higher in the mountains, quieter and closer to the cable car, ropeway and many traditional hotels. Leave luggage at the hotel, buy the Cable Car & Ropeway 1-Day Ticket at Gōra Station and visit Ōwakudani before returning to Gōra. Eat the Quattro Formaggi pizza at Pub Stop Pizza & Bar. At Suiun or Tokinoyu, return early for the private hot-spring bath, sauna, kimono, 5 PM matcha experience, hot chocolate and free night ramen. Our pick is Suiun because natural hot-spring water comes directly to the bath in your room. For a lower price, compare Tokinoyu. Its separate private baths use natural hot-spring water and are enough for a relaxing stay.
18 September - Hakone to Kyoto
Have breakfast and one final bath, then travel through Odawara. Take a direct Hikari if the time works; Nozomi does not stop at Odawara. Book through SmartEX. In Kyoto, explore Nishiki Market, Pontochō and the Kamo River. Engine Ramen has a good vegan ramen; Mumokuteki is another good choice.
19 September - Arashiyama and teamLab Biovortex
Reach the bamboo grove around 7 AM. We found it disappointing, so keep the visit short. Take the Sagano Romantic Train one way from Torokko Saga to Kameoka; choose Car No. 5 if available. Walk through the fields to JR Umahori and return to Arashiyama. Visit Tenryū-ji and book the Yuki lunch at Shigetsu. Rest in the afternoon, then spend 2-3 hours at teamLab Biovortex Kyoto. Eat at Honolu nearby and look for OHAYO Crème Brûlée and Butter de Shikonda Funwari Melonpan at 7-Eleven.
20 September - Historic Kyoto
Reach Kiyomizu-dera near opening time, then walk down Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka. Try Rabbit Bagels’ garlic cheese bagel, pickled cucumber, strawberries and warm dorayaki. Eat lunch at Mumokuteki. Continue to the Nanzen-ji aqueduct and Philosopher’s Path, or reserve a ring-making activity. Choose Vegan Ramen UZU over Shokaku Noodles.
21 September - Fushimi Inari and Nara
Reach Fushimi Inari around 6:30-7 AM and walk beyond the first torii tunnels. Continue to Nara, browse Higashimuki Shopping Street, visit Nara Park and add Tōdai-ji if time allows. Eat at Vegan Friendly Ramen by Playpen Friends. Return to Kyoto and order the Margherita DOC at Pizzeria SaluTori - the best pizza of our trip.
22 September - Kyoto to Osaka
Leave around 10 AM and stay near Namba. At Hiyori Hotel, the Deluxe Double Room is spacious and includes a foot massager. We would skip the average ¥5,000 massage nearby and rest instead. Eat Indian or Nepali comfort food, then see Dōtonbori, Don Quijote, a purikura booth and quiet Hōzenji Yokochō after dark.
23 September - Osaka to Tokyo
Travel from Namba to Shin-Osaka, not Osaka Station. For a Hikari or Kodama with non-reserved cars, arrive 20-30 minutes early. Starting at Shin-Osaka improves your chance of sitting together, but a seat is not guaranteed. Check whether Nozomi has reserved seats only on your travel date. In Tokyo, shop at UNIQLO, GU and MUJI in Ginza. ANNAM Indian Restaurant was excellent but expensive; we liked its paneer tikka masala, lachha paratha and aloo paratha.
24 September - Tokyo
Our recommendation is to visit only teamLab Biovortex Kyoto. If you still want teamLab Planets (Tokyo), take an early slot, wear rollable trousers and eat the basic miso ramen at Vegan Ramen UZU. Otherwise start in Ginza: visit Age.3 for the crème brûlée and strawberry chocolate sandwiches, then browse G. Itoya, Seiko and MUJI. Enter SHIBUYA SKY around an hour before sunset and stay into the night. Tickets currently open at midnight Japan time 14 days ahead.
25 September - Shinjuku, Harajuku and Skytree
Visit Onitsuka Tiger, then explore Yodobashi Camera and Bic Camera. Compare and buy beauty products at OS Drug, Sundrug and Matsumoto Kiyoshi. OS Drug is usually cheaper even without tax-free shopping, but it may not stock every recommended item. At Age.3 Harajuku, try the raw honey and pistachio sandwiches. Across both Age.3 visits, our ranking was crème brûlée first, strawberry chocolate second, raw honey third and pistachio fourth. Walk Takeshita Street and make purikura photos. Tokyo Skytree is optional if you already visited SHIBUYA SKY.
26 September - Fly home
Reach the airport around three hours before an international flight. Spend the remaining Welcome Suica balance at airport shops or convenience stores that accept Suica because money left on the card cannot be refunded.
Hotels
- Hakone: Our pick is Setsugetsuka Bettei Suiun because natural hot-spring water comes directly to the bath in your room. Both Suiun and Tokinoyu offer matcha if it is running and free late-night ramen. For a lower price, compare Tokinoyu. Its separate private baths use natural hot-spring water and are enough for a relaxing stay.
- Kyoto: the Airbnb near Tōfukuji was close to the train station, although the rooms felt small.
- Osaka: Hiyori Hotel Osaka Namba Station, preferably a Deluxe Double Room.
- Tokyo: Tokyo Sunshine Tower in Minato was central. Shinjuku or Ginza are also easy areas for a first visit.
Book ahead
- Book teamLab Biovortex Kyoto when dates are fixed. It is the only teamLab we recommend.
- Book Shinkansen tickets through SmartEX about one month ahead.
- Book the Sagano Romantic Train at midnight Japan time one month ahead.
- Book SHIBUYA SKY at midnight Japan time 14 days ahead, aiming for 60-90 minutes before sunset.
- Book Shigetsu at least three days ahead and wait for its confirmation email.
First-time practical advice
Vegetarian food: “Vegetarian” may still include fish stock. Ask about dashi, bonito, fish extract and egg. We carried sealed packs of rajma, jeera rice, thepla and chutney so we had familiar food after long days.
- Buy a Welcome Suica at Haneda Airport before leaving the airport and add at least ¥5,000 to your card for a smooth first 1-2 days of travel. It is currently valid for 28 days. Money left on it cannot be refunded. Recharge it with cash at supported ticket machines or Seven Bank ATMs.
- Save a screenshot of each Shinkansen ticket QR code. After buying your Suica card in Japan, you can also link its card number to the SmartEX booking and tap the Suica card at the Shinkansen gate.
- We carried about ₹60,000 cash for two people over nine days. You may need more or less depending on prepaid bookings and shopping.
- Ask each hotel or host if you can leave bags before check-in. Before using Japanese luggage delivery (takkyubin), ask if your next hotel or host can receive the bag.
- Reserve Shinkansen luggage space if the suitcase length + width + height is more than 160 cm.
- Convenience-store favourites: the must-try fruit sandwich from 7-Eleven or FamilyMart, FamilyMart Margherita pizza wrap, 7-Eleven OHAYO Crème Brûlée and 7-Eleven Butter de Shikonda Funwari Melonpan.
- Beauty products to look for: Rohto Melano CC Premium Essence; SANA Nameraka Honpo eye cream; Fino Premium Touch Hair Mask; Keana Nadeshiko Rice Mask; DHC Lip Cream; Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Lotion; and Biodance Bio-Collagen Real Deep Mask. OS Drug may be cheaper but may not stock every item.
- For a fun evening, use Lime or LUUP for a short bike ride in Kyoto or Tokyo. Park only in an approved area.
Vegetarian phrase:
私たちはベジタリアンです。肉、魚、魚介類、魚のだし、卵は食べられません。乳製品は大丈夫です。
We are vegetarian. We cannot eat meat, fish, seafood, fish stock/dashi or egg. Dairy is fine.
Opening hours, prices, ticket rules and promotions can change. Recheck official sources before booking and the day before every fixed-time activity.